It's Earth Day, so let's celebrate with special Earth Day jewelry.  Here's an idea from one of our customers: celebrate the universe by making a necklace that represents the solar system.

If you don't have your grade-school solar system project handy, you'll find Google very helpful (in case you need a refresher).

Here's the fun part:  Selecting beads for the different planets. Look for beads that seem appropriate in size and color.  A big yellow or gold bead for the sun.  Greenish/bluish for the earth.  Saturn gets to spin inside a ring; the moon can be pock-marked or smooth.  Add some sparkly beads in between to represent stars or asteroids.

Put it all together and you have a very unique piece of jewelry that also looks awesome!  

Let's talk some more about sterling silver.  Customers frequently ask about sterling -- everyone likes it, but they don't want to have to keep it polished.  What is it that causes tarnishing?

It turns out that the tarnishing doesn't have anything to do with the silver.  Sterling, because it is too soft to use as jewelry in its pure form, is combined with another metal to add strength.  Usually with copper. And copper reacts to chemicals in the air, notably sulfur, that causes it to darken.  Moisture, dirt and oils can accelerate the tarnishing.

This feature can also be used to its advantage.  Silver jewelry can be deliberately oxidized to create a patina that enhances a design on the silver.  There are different chemicals that can accomplish this (liver of sulfur being commonly known), with slightly different effects.  Even scrambled eggs can be used, although I've heard the results are not as reliable, and there is a lot of cleaning required.

How to minimize the tarnishing?  Keeping your silver dry, clean, and protected from the air as much as possible.  Giving it a quick rub with a polishing cloth when taking it off, and storing it in a zip-lock bag or plastic container with a lid, can help a lot.

Why do we like sterling so much?  Partly because its so nice and shiny (when new and polished).  And it sounds fancy.  But other metals are worth considering if you are not one to be bothered with the care, upkeep and polishing of your silver.  Stainless steel is becoming popular as jewelry and will not tarnish, though it is not as bright and shiny as sterling.  Rhodium plating on pewter is much slower to tarnish and is almost as shiny as sterling.  Materials that coat sterling and protect it from the elements can also help slow the tarnishing process.  Just remember that options are available and whatever you go with, it's all beautiful and it's all good.

If you like working with memory wire you've probably found yourself with odd lengths left over that you hate to throw out, but they don't lend themselves to the usual designs.  Here are some ideas for using many (if not all) of those scraps.

Memory wire bracelets will usually wrap around the wrist two or three times.  This adds security since you don't put clasps on the wire.

What about shorter pieces, say 2 or 3 inches?  Well, those bracelets need matching earrings, don't they?  If you don't like leaving a loop at the bottom of the wire, you could add a short dangle on a headpin, or finish the ends with an end cap (more on that below).

You haven't worked with memory wire but now you're interested?  Let's get you started. 

Memory wire is a hardened steel wire that is tempered to retain its shape, and is available in different shapes and sizes.  At Bead In Hand we carry round shapes for a small bracelet, large bracelet and choker size.  What's great about memory wire is how easy it is to use.  String on the beads.  Finish ends.  Done.

Here is the most important thing you need to know:  never cut memory wire with soft wire cutters!!!  It will nick and forever ruin your cutters.  You have two choices for cutting memory wire: 1) use memory wire cutters, or 2) bend the wire back and forth until it breaks.

You also have two choices for finishing the ends of memory wire: 1) make a loop at each end, or 2) glue a memory wire end cap on each end (half-drilled beads that fit snugly on the wire).  We usually finish the ends by making a loop--it's easy and secure, and you can hang an extra dangle or two off as well!

Although memory wire is hard, your regular round nose pliers will work for making the loops at the end.  However, if you work with it a lot, we strongly recommend using round hollow pliers for making the loops.  They help relieve the stress from repetitive hand motions.

Now you're ready to start -- let's see some show & tell!

I want to create a quick reference sheet about metals, so naturally I turned to the internet.  I don't work with wire or metals a whole lot, so I knew I needed to do some research.

Turns out there is A LOT of information on the internet. (Who knew?  I'm starting to think my reference sheet isn't going to be too quick.)  If this is a topic you've always wanted to know more about but just haven't gotten to, here are some teasers to get you started. 

The term precious metal refers to rare metals of high economic value. The term usually includes platinum, gold, and silver.  Base metal is a catch-all term in the jewelry industry for metals used in costume jewelry. In metal working, base metal is any metal that is not one of the noble or precious metals.  

And that's another term (and a new one for me).  A metal is “noble” if it is highly resistant to corrosion.  So a metal can be “noble” without being "precious." Gold, silver, and platinum are considered to be both noble metals and precious metals.  Other noble metals are ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, osmium, and iridium.

The Silvers
Sterling Silver is 92.5% Silver and 7.5% metal alloy, usually copper.  The alloy added to sterling silver makes the silver more durable.  Sterling silver is typically marked "Sterling"  or .925.

Silver-filled is a lamination of .925 sterling silver and a less costly metal (such as nickel). This produces a surface of sterling silver or fine silver that is hundreds of times thicker than a silver plating.  (More about lamination when we get to gold-filled.)

Nickel silver has no silver.  Nickel is a combination of 65% copper, 18% nickel, and 17% zinc.  It is sometimes called German Silver, dressing it up a bit, but the same underneath.

Argentium® Sterling Silver is basically sterling silver, but replaces some of the copper with germanium.   This gives it "increased ductility, high tarnish resistance, and greater thermal  resistance for easier welding and laser forming."  The silver content remains 92.5%, to keep the name “sterling silver”.  (It is actually patented and trademarked by Argentium Silver Company, UK).

The Golds
Pure karat gold is 24kt, meaning 24 out of 24 parts are gold.  Since pure gold is too soft to be functional, it is alloyed with other metals for durability, cost and color. 14kt is 14 parts gold out of 24, and the remaining 10 parts are other metals (which can be copper, silver, nickel, zinc, tin, palladium and/or manganese). The reason you get different colors of gold is due to the different alloys used.

Gold-filled, like silver-filled, means that an item has a layer of karat gold bonded on the outside of another metal called the base metal. The process generally uses heat and pressure to apply a layer of karat gold.   The minimum layer of karat gold must equal at least 1/20 of the total weight of the item. 

Gold filled and silver-filled are hundreds of times thicker than regular plating, and about 17 to 25,000 times thicker than heavy electroplated gold and silver.

Vermeil, pronounced "vehr-MAY," is a plating of karat gold over sterling silver.

Maybe it's because the temperature outside is, you know, really really cold, that I'm thinking spring.  As in Springtime, warmer weather, sunshine, flowers, and summer jewelry.

Whatever the reason, I've had thoughts of simple bracelets and necklaces floating around my head made with cords and braids and beads.  The basic braid is easily manipulated to create designs from fancy to funky.

Here are some tips to get your own ideas floating around your head, starting with your choice of cord.

Keep in mind that you'll want at least one cord thin enough to string some beads onto, then pretty much anything will do.  Cords that we like working with include waxed linen, Chinese knotting cord and waxed cotton cord.  

Waxed linen is a little tacky and can be mushed back together when it frays.  Chinese knotting cord is not as stiff and has a nice drape, though this can make it harder to string beads onto.  But because it's nylon the ends can be melted, which is a nice feature.  Waxed cotton is not tacky like waxed linen, comes in several thicknesses and colors and is soft to work with.

I like to start with the button.  Your basic braid requires three strands, so I use one long cord folded in half, and another cord that is tied with the other two to secure the button.

Start your braid -- it's up to your how much braiding you want between beads, whether you want to be very uniform or more free-form in your spacing.

Decide whether you want beads to be centered in your braid, or peeking out along the sides.

For centered beads, string a bead onto a cord as it is placed in the center position, then make a couple (or however many you want) braids around it.

Tie the cords close to the last bead or when you've reached the length you want, then tie two of the cords to create a loop that just fits over the button.  Snip the extra cord and apply a dab of glue.

For something that highlights the cord and uses beads as adornments along the sides, add smaller beads (these are size 6/0 seed beads) on the outside edge, with several braids in between.

Many of these designs can be worn as either a necklace of a multi-wrap bracelet.  Experiment with variations -- try making something with a very loose braid and see how it changes the look.  Or try replacing one cord with two thinner cords.

Yes, it WILL get warmer, and you'll want to be ready with jewelry to show off when you no longer need to bundle up head to toe!

We have a poster in the shop called The History of Beads.  It provides a visual story, showing the types of beads being made and traded during various time periods and in various geographical regions.

Perhaps it's seeing Laurel re-organizing the African table that got me thinking about the truly international love and use of beads, and I found myself dipping into a couple of books we have about bead history.

What's really amazing about beads is how they've traveled.  Many of the "African" beads we see and think of as "African" are European in origin.  These millefiori beads were typical of Venetian beads traded throughout Europe, Africa and Asia.  But nothing stays secret for long; beadmakers in India are also known for their millefiori beads.  

Beads that are made in Africa include "sand cast" beads, generally a bit rough and "sandy" looking.  The process has nothing to do with sand, as they're made using a technique called powder-glass beadmaking, where glass is crushed very fine and heated so the particles fuse together.

It is difficult to dis-entangle the threads that connect countries, tribes, continents and changing power structures that occur over time when reading about this history.  Our definition of a bead (if it has a hole in it, it's a bead) has existed for thousands of years.  Spiritual attributes are often attributed to certain materials or designs.  A group of people moves from one place to another and their art merges with the new culture.  Things change.  Things stay the same.  With beads, it's all good.

21 REASONS FOR BUYING BEADS
REASON NUMBER TWO:  Buying beads keeps our economy going.   It is our patriotic duty to support bead stores.

Trust beaders to be on the cutting edge of political savvy-ness.  We've understood the patriotic advantages of stocking up on beads for decades.  

It's practical, too.  Everyone knows that they need to keep some basic colors in their supply -- black, for instance.  Which means you need black seed beads in 15/0, 11/0, 8/0, 6/0, delicas, cubes, Czech and Japanese, as well as rounds in different sizes.  And we need shiny black and matte black.  That's just one color!

Even though we don't think you need a reason to buy beads, sometimes you're with other people who don't understand.  For those people, explain that you have to be ready when inspiration comes your way.  So you have your blue collection, green collection, etc.

Every so often we have a customer who asks if we drill holes in stone or beach glass, or if we know how.  The answer is no, to both parts.  It's not an area any of us have explored so we tell people they'll have to do their own research.

Dakota Stones recently shared an article about drilling your own stones, written by their friend and jewelry designer Kristin Oppold.

The article was published on CreativeBeadChat.com, and it's a wonderful piece that not only tells you about the tools and supplies you need and how to set it up, but also provides tips and advice the author learned from her own experience.  


We still don't drill stones or have experience with it, but now we have an excellent resource to get you started.  So with thanks and acknowledgements to Dakota Stones, CreativeBeadChat.com, and Kristin Oppold for writing the article, we're sharing it with you.

Click HERE to go to the article, Just Drill It - A Tutorial on Drilling Stone and Other Material, by Kristin Oppold.

Sometimes I think my staff need a more specific task list for days I'm not at the shop because, based on what I see when I return, they seem to have a little too much spare time.  On the other hand, it's hard to complain when they spend that time discovering new and easy projects like the one I get to show you today.

I'm calling it the caterpillar bracelet, because that's what it looks like to me.  But I'm open to suggestions.

Here's what you need:

• 7mm rolo chain, about 1/2 to 1 inch shorter than your wrist
  
• One button
  
• About 32 to 36 beads - 6mm to 8mm rounds or rondelles work well
  
• About 3 feet waxed linen
  

Here's what you do:

1.  String the waxed linen on the button and center it, then tie a knot close to the button.  You can use a shank button (as in this photo) or a sew-through button.  If the shank is too small for the waxed linen, try putting a jump ring through it and stringing the waxed linen through the ring.

You'll add beads along one side of the chain, then do the second side.  The beads will always be next to the links that lay "perpendicular" to the work surface, and the cord will always go through the links that are "parallel" to the work surface.  In this photo, the first link that the button is tied to is "perpendicular."

3.  String one bead and bring it close to the first link.  Bring the cord UNDER and through the next link of chain.

4.  Pull the cord snug and adjust the bead as necessary so it sits close to its link.

That's the basic step!  

5.  Add another bead and bring the cord under and through the next "parallel" link.  Adjust the bead so it sits next to its link.

In other words, the beads and cord alternate every other link.

Continue until you've finished one side.

NOTE:  You need to end with a "parallel" link.  Remove one link of chain if necessary.

6.  Flip your piece over to do the other side, starting again at the button.  Add one bead and bring the cord under and through the next link.

When you reach the end you'll see why you need to finish with a "parallel" link.  Your cords will be going through this link in opposite directions (just like you started).  

Tie a knot snug against the last link.  Then tie a knot in the cord to make a loop that fits around the button.  We like to add size 11/0 or 8/0 metal seed beads to the cord before making the loop, but you don't have to.  You can also add extra dangles and charms if desired.

We all have those "duh!" moments, right?  When you realize that what you need has been right there all along?

So it was when a customer came in with an earring design in mind.  I knew what she wanted, but we didn't have that specific finding in stock.  And then it hit me:  take the 25mm beading hoops and with a stretch here and a bend there they become beautiful fancy earwires!

Start with one pair of beading hoops.  A number of sizes are available -- we carry 20mm and 25mm.

Hold the hoops together to be sure you shape them the same.

Holding the hoops at each end, gently stretch apart into an oval half-circle (if there is such a thing).

Still holding the hoops together, make a bend about 1 1/2 inches from the straight edge.

Use chain nose pliers to bend the bottom loops so they're slightly angled from the wire -- you don't have to do this, but it's a nice touch.

You can add a bead or two to the earwire above the loop if you want (you'll probably have to straighten out the bend a bit to do this -- or if you're good at planning ahead, add the beads before making the bend).

Then use your headpins/eyepins as usual to make your earrings and attach them to your new fancy earwires!    Now you're ready to sparkle the whole holiday season.